Exploring the Legendary Ba Danh Pagoda in Ha Nam – The Origin of the Saying “As Deserted as Ba Danh Pagoda”
Famous for the Vietnamese saying “Vắng như chùa Bà Đanh” (“As deserted as Ba Danh Pagoda”), Bao Son Tu-its formal name-is one of the oldest and most serene temples in Northern Vietnam. Located in Dan Xa Hamlet, Ngoc Son Commune, Kim Bang District, Ha Nam Province, the pagoda embodies a deep sense of cultural, historical, and architectural heritage.
Where Did the Saying “As Deserted as Ba Danh Pagoda” Come From?
With a history of over 300 years, Ba Danh Pagoda sits in a unique location: three sides surrounded by rivers, one side leaning against a mountain, isolated from nearby residential areas. According to local elders, the phrase originated from the temple’s remote setting. In the past, the area was covered in dense forest with a difficult and unfrequented access path. Even the most convenient route-by boat across the Day River-was challenging, especially during flood season.
This inaccessibility led to the temple being rarely visited, hence the now widely known metaphor “as deserted as Ba Danh Pagoda”, passed down through generations as a vivid expression in daily language.
A Temple Rooted in Legends and Folk Worship
Beyond its architectural significance, Ba Danh Pagoda is steeped in layers of legend. Historical records suggest that the site originally housed a small shrine dedicated to the Four Dharma Goddesses (Phap Van, Phap Vu, Phap Loi, Phap Dien) since the 7th century. During the reign of King Le Huy Tong (1675 - 1750), the shrine was renovated and expanded into a larger temple, where additional folk deities were worshiped-most notably the Lady of Danh Village, believed to control clouds and winds, bless the harvest, and bring peace to the people.
The worship space integrates both Buddhism and Mother Goddess beliefs, featuring statues of the Three Palaces and Four Palaces deities, Nam Tao and Bac Dau, and the Supreme Elder (Thai Thuong Lao Quan)-a unique example of the religious syncretism typical of Northern Vietnam.
Ancient Architecture Preserved Through Time
Ba Danh Pagoda spans over 10 hectares, with nearly 40 interconnected buildings cascading down the hillside, facing the river. Its tiled roofs, wooden beams, and bare brick walls are all weathered with time. Of special note is the great bronze bell, inscribed with ancient Han characters that reveal the vibrant religious life of centuries past.
To the east lies the Mother Goddess worship area, adjacent to the central hall. The five-compartment side building is dedicated to former abbots, preserving the temple’s spiritual lineage through generations.
A Peaceful Retreat Amidst Nature
Today, access is much easier. From Hanoi, visitors can take National Highway 1A to Phu Ly City, turn onto Highway 21, and travel about 10km to reach Cam Son suspension bridge over the Day River. Vehicles can be parked at the bridge entrance, and guests walk a short distance to reach the temple gate.
The entrance is now broad and welcoming, flanked by lush gardens of longan and lychee trees, creating a sense of tranquility. After paying respects at the temple, visitors can descend the stone steps by the riverbank, feel the breeze, inhale the scent of fresh water, and experience a different side of Ha Nam-peaceful, spiritual, and timeless.
Visitor Information
- Opening hours: 6:00 AM – 6:00 PM daily
- Entrance fee: 10,000 VND/person (free for children under 6)
Though Ba Danh Pagoda has not been developed on the same scale as other famous pagodas in the province-such as Tam Chuc, Phat Quang, or Dia Tang Phi Lai-it possesses a quiet charm of its own. It is a place of stillness, of centuries-old architecture, and of a folk tale that, though it speaks of silence, leaves visitors wanting to stay.
Recognized as a National Historical and Cultural Site since 1994, Ba Danh Pagoda is no longer as “deserted” as the saying suggests. Instead, it is becoming an ideal destination for those seeking serenity and a return to the essence of self.
After visiting Ba Danh Pagoda, Tien Loc Palace Hotel offers the perfect stop for rest and rejuvenation. Located in the heart of Phu Ly City, the hotel provides a peaceful atmosphere, modern amenities, and attentive, professional service. From a warm cup of tea at Enjoy Coffee, to a delightful meal at Tien Loc Restaurant, and a restful night’s sleep in a spacious, airy room—everything here evokes a sense of "peaceful as home" that leaves guests longing to return.
